To the West with the Milligans, 2017
Glacier Daily Journal
On this page before the journey we will post what we plan to see and do each day in Glacier National Park.
Update
Our days at Glacier did not turn out any of the way that we planned. So this is the story of what happened. The original plan follows the update.
Sunday 8/27
We began the day by visiting the C.M. Russell art museum in Great Fall. Russell was a great American painter of the west. We drove on to Lake McDonald Lodge to meet DeeDee and Bret. We drove 214 miles this day. We are staying in a cabin next to the lodge. We had a 2 room suite. We did a short walk around the lodge and then went to supper.
Monday 8/28
We got up early and left for Logan Pass on the the Going to the Sun Road. We hiked to Hidden Lake and had beautiful blue skies. We then drove the rest of the Going to the Sun Road, but as we did the skies became filled with smoke. On August 10 a small wildfire was started by a lighting strike in the Spraque Creek and Sperry Chalet area of the park. This is very close to the Lake McDonald lodge. By the time we got to the end of the road at St. Mary Lake there was so much smoke you couldn’t see any blue in the sky. We drove back to Lake McDonald and even though there was some smoke, I was able to get some OK sunset pictures.
Our days at Glacier did not turn out any of the way that we planned. So this is the story of what happened. The original plan follows the update.
Sunday 8/27
We began the day by visiting the C.M. Russell art museum in Great Fall. Russell was a great American painter of the west. We drove on to Lake McDonald Lodge to meet DeeDee and Bret. We drove 214 miles this day. We are staying in a cabin next to the lodge. We had a 2 room suite. We did a short walk around the lodge and then went to supper.
Monday 8/28
We got up early and left for Logan Pass on the the Going to the Sun Road. We hiked to Hidden Lake and had beautiful blue skies. We then drove the rest of the Going to the Sun Road, but as we did the skies became filled with smoke. On August 10 a small wildfire was started by a lighting strike in the Spraque Creek and Sperry Chalet area of the park. This is very close to the Lake McDonald lodge. By the time we got to the end of the road at St. Mary Lake there was so much smoke you couldn’t see any blue in the sky. We drove back to Lake McDonald and even though there was some smoke, I was able to get some OK sunset pictures.
Tuesday 8/29
Thomas and I got up early to see the sunrise alpenglow on Heaven’s Peak along the Going to the Sun Road. We got there early, but the air grew more smoky. We drove back to Lake McDonald and after breakfast went on a short drive and hike to McDonald Falls. They were pretty falls but the sky was smoky. Since Bret was on a long hike on this day so DeeDee went with us to Apgar village. As we drove closer to Apgar, the skies became more filled with smoke. We were very discouraged when we saw the webcam of areas of the park and realized that there was smoke everywhere and there was no chance of it lifting. We starting thinking about maybe even going somewhere else like Banff in Canada. After some research we found out that it was just as smoky there since there are many forest fires in British Columbia. It just seemed like our whole trip would be smoky skies, which were beginning to make it even hard to breathe. We tried to move up our reservations to Many Glacier which were supposed to begin on Friday but there were no rooms. There was now so much smoke that you couldn’t see the lake.
Then about 9:00 this evening we got a special hand delivered message from the staff that Lake McDonald Lodge was closing for the season due to the fire and that the staff had found us reservations for the rest of our stay at Many Glacier. We would move the next day.
Thomas and I got up early to see the sunrise alpenglow on Heaven’s Peak along the Going to the Sun Road. We got there early, but the air grew more smoky. We drove back to Lake McDonald and after breakfast went on a short drive and hike to McDonald Falls. They were pretty falls but the sky was smoky. Since Bret was on a long hike on this day so DeeDee went with us to Apgar village. As we drove closer to Apgar, the skies became more filled with smoke. We were very discouraged when we saw the webcam of areas of the park and realized that there was smoke everywhere and there was no chance of it lifting. We starting thinking about maybe even going somewhere else like Banff in Canada. After some research we found out that it was just as smoky there since there are many forest fires in British Columbia. It just seemed like our whole trip would be smoky skies, which were beginning to make it even hard to breathe. We tried to move up our reservations to Many Glacier which were supposed to begin on Friday but there were no rooms. There was now so much smoke that you couldn’t see the lake.
Then about 9:00 this evening we got a special hand delivered message from the staff that Lake McDonald Lodge was closing for the season due to the fire and that the staff had found us reservations for the rest of our stay at Many Glacier. We would move the next day.
Wednesday 8/30
We packed up and drove over the Going the Sun Highway to St. Mary, where we met DeeDee and Bret who left a little after us. It was smoky all along the Going to the Sun Road. We decided that it may be time for us to start thinking about leaving early. We had 7 days of rooms at Many Glacier but the smoke would keep us from doing several of the hikes we had planned. It just didn’t make sense to stay for 7 days.
Since our room wasn’t ready, we went ahead and checked in and then decided to drive on to the Canadian park that adjoins Glacier. Together these parks are called the Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park. We had to drive through Canada to see this part of the park. The skies were some better here and by the end of the day we had almost blue skies. We saw the famous Prince of Wales hotel and the town of Waterton. We drove to Lake Cameron and did a short hike around the lake. We then drove to the Red Rock Canyon and did another short hike to Blakiston Falls. We had a wonderful dinner in the town of Babb at the steak house. It was a treat from DeeDee to celebrate our retirement. The meal was wonderful. We returned to Many and moved into our rooms. After much discussion and thought we decided that we would leave Glacier on Saturday. We spent a lot of time planning where we would spend the extra days. We developed a plan but since there is no wifi or cell service here we couldn’t actually make any real changes.
We packed up and drove over the Going the Sun Highway to St. Mary, where we met DeeDee and Bret who left a little after us. It was smoky all along the Going to the Sun Road. We decided that it may be time for us to start thinking about leaving early. We had 7 days of rooms at Many Glacier but the smoke would keep us from doing several of the hikes we had planned. It just didn’t make sense to stay for 7 days.
Since our room wasn’t ready, we went ahead and checked in and then decided to drive on to the Canadian park that adjoins Glacier. Together these parks are called the Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park. We had to drive through Canada to see this part of the park. The skies were some better here and by the end of the day we had almost blue skies. We saw the famous Prince of Wales hotel and the town of Waterton. We drove to Lake Cameron and did a short hike around the lake. We then drove to the Red Rock Canyon and did another short hike to Blakiston Falls. We had a wonderful dinner in the town of Babb at the steak house. It was a treat from DeeDee to celebrate our retirement. The meal was wonderful. We returned to Many and moved into our rooms. After much discussion and thought we decided that we would leave Glacier on Saturday. We spent a lot of time planning where we would spend the extra days. We developed a plan but since there is no wifi or cell service here we couldn’t actually make any real changes.
Thursday 8/31
We began the day by going to the St. Mary’s visitor center where we had cell service and began calling and trying to make the changes we wanted to make. After about an hour on the phone, we were able to make the changes we had planned.
We drove on to the Two Medicine Lake area of the park. This is the least visited part of the park and because if its location and the wind direction, the skies were clear blue. There was no smoke. We hiked to Roaring Eagle Falls and then hiked to Paradise Point on Two Medicine Lake. We had a picnic lunch along the lake and drove on to East Glacier to see the first of the grand lodges built by the railroads that were the beginning of Glacier National Park in 1910. We returned to Many Glacier and were saddened as we saw the skies grow smoky and dark. We expected to see the hotel totally smoked in - but we were surprised to see beautiful blue skies as we made the turn into the road that goes into the park. By the time we got to our hotel the skies were blue. We went to Swiftcurrent area close to the Many Lodge and did laundry. On the way back from the laundry there was a beautiful sunset.
We began the day by going to the St. Mary’s visitor center where we had cell service and began calling and trying to make the changes we wanted to make. After about an hour on the phone, we were able to make the changes we had planned.
We drove on to the Two Medicine Lake area of the park. This is the least visited part of the park and because if its location and the wind direction, the skies were clear blue. There was no smoke. We hiked to Roaring Eagle Falls and then hiked to Paradise Point on Two Medicine Lake. We had a picnic lunch along the lake and drove on to East Glacier to see the first of the grand lodges built by the railroads that were the beginning of Glacier National Park in 1910. We returned to Many Glacier and were saddened as we saw the skies grow smoky and dark. We expected to see the hotel totally smoked in - but we were surprised to see beautiful blue skies as we made the turn into the road that goes into the park. By the time we got to our hotel the skies were blue. We went to Swiftcurrent area close to the Many Lodge and did laundry. On the way back from the laundry there was a beautiful sunset.
Friday 9/1
We began the day by hiking to Fishercap Lake to see the moose. We saw a cow and a yearling. We hurried back to the hotel and caught the boat across Swiftcurrent Lake. Then we did a short hike to Lake Josephene and road the boat across this lake. We then hiked to Lower Grinnell Lake and saw the Grinnell Glacier. Bret went ahead and did a longer hike to the glacier and upper Grinnell Lake. After our return trip we moved to our new rooms - the one that Bret had originally booked for us. We had a beautiful clear day, but as the day ended we saw the smoke come in and learned that the fire had spread and the Sperry Chalet had burned.
We began the day by hiking to Fishercap Lake to see the moose. We saw a cow and a yearling. We hurried back to the hotel and caught the boat across Swiftcurrent Lake. Then we did a short hike to Lake Josephene and road the boat across this lake. We then hiked to Lower Grinnell Lake and saw the Grinnell Glacier. Bret went ahead and did a longer hike to the glacier and upper Grinnell Lake. After our return trip we moved to our new rooms - the one that Bret had originally booked for us. We had a beautiful clear day, but as the day ended we saw the smoke come in and learned that the fire had spread and the Sperry Chalet had burned.
Saturday 9/2
We drove to St. Mary and made phone calls to our family and then started our journey eastward. See the Eastward Daily Journal to see our new travel plans.
We drove to St. Mary and made phone calls to our family and then started our journey eastward. See the Eastward Daily Journal to see our new travel plans.
Original Plans for Glacier
We will meet up with our sister and brother in law, Brett and DeeDee Taylor at Glacier National Park. While here we will stay in the two lodges inside the park: Lake McDonald Lodge from 8/27 - 9/1 and Many Glacier from 9/1 - 9/6
Time Zone: MST
Average Temperature at Lake McDonald on this date: 44° to 78°
Full Moon on September 6
Resources I have found for photographing and traveling in Glacier:
Bret has done a lot of planning for this part of the trip and we are grateful. Here are his plans for us (copied from his email - the I is Bret and the y'all are Karen and Thomas).
Sunday, August 27: I will take a long hike. We will meet y’all whenever you get there. If you get there before I finish my hike (probably early afternoon) DeeDee can meet you. I’m thinking we can meet at Logan Pass Visitor Center. We may or may not have already checked into the Lake McDonald Lodge. We’ll play the rest of the day by ear.
Sunset at Logan Pass at 8:25pm at 285.6°
Monday, August 28: Take a couple of short hikes. One of them will be the hike to Hidden Lake overlook. Should see some big horn sheep and some mountain goats. Lots of gorgeous views and plenty of places to take photos.
Sunrise at Hidden Lake Overlook at 6:47 am at 74.6°
Sunset at Hidden Lake Overlook at 8:23pm at 285.1°
Moon Phase: First Quarter
Tuesday, August 29: I’ll take another long hike. You three will have the morning to mid afternoon to do whatever y’all want.
Wednesday, August 30: Take the hike to Avalanche Lake. (This is one is about 4.5 miles total, out and back.) Take another very short walk – Johns Lake Loop. Spend the rest of the day in the Apgar Village area.
Sunrise at Avalanche Lake at 6:50 am at 75.7°
Sunset at Apgar Village at 8:20 at 284°
Thursday, August 31: Drive Going to the Sun Road to the east entrance, then head south. Go to Two Medicine Area. Couple of short hikes to overlooks/water falls. Drive around the southern rim of the park (US Hwy 2) and come back to the lodge from the west entrance. (The map may help you understand what I’m saying. There is an historic lodge in East Glacier. We’ll drop in and see it. Maybe have a meal.
Sunrise at Medicine Lake at 6:50am at 76.3°
Sunset at Medicine Lake at 8:15 at 283.4°
Friday, September 1: Go to Many Glacier. Y’all will drive. I will hike. I’ll meet you at the Many Glacier Hotel.
Sunset at Many Glacier Hotel at 8:15pm at 282.9°
Saturday, September 2: I’m gonna rest. We will stay in the area and take short walks around the lakes, or just sit and admire the views.
Sunrise at Many Glacier Hotel at 6:53 am at 77.3°
Sunset at Many Glacier Hotel at 8:13pm at 282.4°
Sunday, September 3 Grinell Glacier. This is a combination boat ride and hike. Y’all may not want to hike all the way to Grinell Glacier, but – if you want to, you can take the boat ride and do as much or as little as you wish.
Sunrise at Grinell Glacier at 6:55 at 77.9°
Sunset at Grinell Glacier at 8:11 at 281.7°
Moon Phase: almost full - full moon on 9/6
Monday, September 4 : Go to Canada and see the Goat Haunt area of the park. (Note – this day and September 2 can be switched. Probably depend on the weather.)
Tuesday, September 5: Hike to Iceberg Lake. (Long hike)
Sunrise at Many Glacier Hotel at 6:58 at 79°
Sunset at Many Glacier Hotel at 8:07° at 280.6°
We will meet up with our sister and brother in law, Brett and DeeDee Taylor at Glacier National Park. While here we will stay in the two lodges inside the park: Lake McDonald Lodge from 8/27 - 9/1 and Many Glacier from 9/1 - 9/6
Time Zone: MST
Average Temperature at Lake McDonald on this date: 44° to 78°
Full Moon on September 6
Resources I have found for photographing and traveling in Glacier:
- Improve Photography, Glacier National Park.
- Glacier NPS Photo Tips
- Hike 734 Guide to Day Hikes in Glacier
- Guide to Going to the Sun Road by Hike734 - This is available for purchase in the park - will consider purchasing this. It looks very helpful.
- Glacier story on Stellar website - nice collection of images but no information on location
- Local Photographer, Chuck Haney page on Glacier
- Glacier National Park Hiking - has list of day hikes and longer hikes also.
- Blog Post by a hiker on the Sun Point area and waterfalls of St. Mary Area
Bret has done a lot of planning for this part of the trip and we are grateful. Here are his plans for us (copied from his email - the I is Bret and the y'all are Karen and Thomas).
Sunday, August 27: I will take a long hike. We will meet y’all whenever you get there. If you get there before I finish my hike (probably early afternoon) DeeDee can meet you. I’m thinking we can meet at Logan Pass Visitor Center. We may or may not have already checked into the Lake McDonald Lodge. We’ll play the rest of the day by ear.
Sunset at Logan Pass at 8:25pm at 285.6°
Monday, August 28: Take a couple of short hikes. One of them will be the hike to Hidden Lake overlook. Should see some big horn sheep and some mountain goats. Lots of gorgeous views and plenty of places to take photos.
Sunrise at Hidden Lake Overlook at 6:47 am at 74.6°
Sunset at Hidden Lake Overlook at 8:23pm at 285.1°
Moon Phase: First Quarter
Tuesday, August 29: I’ll take another long hike. You three will have the morning to mid afternoon to do whatever y’all want.
Wednesday, August 30: Take the hike to Avalanche Lake. (This is one is about 4.5 miles total, out and back.) Take another very short walk – Johns Lake Loop. Spend the rest of the day in the Apgar Village area.
Sunrise at Avalanche Lake at 6:50 am at 75.7°
Sunset at Apgar Village at 8:20 at 284°
Thursday, August 31: Drive Going to the Sun Road to the east entrance, then head south. Go to Two Medicine Area. Couple of short hikes to overlooks/water falls. Drive around the southern rim of the park (US Hwy 2) and come back to the lodge from the west entrance. (The map may help you understand what I’m saying. There is an historic lodge in East Glacier. We’ll drop in and see it. Maybe have a meal.
Sunrise at Medicine Lake at 6:50am at 76.3°
Sunset at Medicine Lake at 8:15 at 283.4°
Friday, September 1: Go to Many Glacier. Y’all will drive. I will hike. I’ll meet you at the Many Glacier Hotel.
Sunset at Many Glacier Hotel at 8:15pm at 282.9°
Saturday, September 2: I’m gonna rest. We will stay in the area and take short walks around the lakes, or just sit and admire the views.
Sunrise at Many Glacier Hotel at 6:53 am at 77.3°
Sunset at Many Glacier Hotel at 8:13pm at 282.4°
Sunday, September 3 Grinell Glacier. This is a combination boat ride and hike. Y’all may not want to hike all the way to Grinell Glacier, but – if you want to, you can take the boat ride and do as much or as little as you wish.
Sunrise at Grinell Glacier at 6:55 at 77.9°
Sunset at Grinell Glacier at 8:11 at 281.7°
Moon Phase: almost full - full moon on 9/6
Monday, September 4 : Go to Canada and see the Goat Haunt area of the park. (Note – this day and September 2 can be switched. Probably depend on the weather.)
Tuesday, September 5: Hike to Iceberg Lake. (Long hike)
Sunrise at Many Glacier Hotel at 6:58 at 79°
Sunset at Many Glacier Hotel at 8:07° at 280.6°